HORNSTRANDIR 2024
BLOG POST
Once we have decided to visit the Hornstrandir Natural Reserve the season was practically over. After closely analysing the weather forecasts we have agreed to stay for only 3 days as we knew we will experience short yet strong storm with high wind speeds up to 40m/s. Despite that , we have decided to take some calculated risk and continue with the trip anyways…
THE STORY STARTS FROM HERE…
DROPPED OFF
Just as we were landing into Hornstrandir Natural Reservation from the ferry´s tiny rubber dinghy we were hit with strong wind gusts and cloth piercing rain. Luckily, the weather calmed a little after a and we were accompanied with more friendly persistent drizzle following us through the trail. Most of the main hiking trails are in Hornstrandir marked with stacked stones. Due to the remoteness, some parts or marks of the trail are completely missing as the natural erosion continues, yet navigating in between these ´´blind spots´´ was not a issue.
Most of the trails are rocky or partly rocky combined with softer spongy turf or worned out moss. There are also soft parts without rocks too, usually on the covered inland side of the cliffs. However, GPS and or at least offline maps are definitely recommended as fog or white out can occur any time.
I am always surprised when I see a building on such remote place making it through exposure to harsh winter winds and blizzards. At the same time I think about the people who used to live and survived here just few generations prior…
As the night approached the wind started to picking up and revealed us red and pink skies…It is prohibited to camp outside designated camp posts.
They are usually equipped with water source, dry toilet and sometimes even with orange survival shelter. These facilities are meant to be used only in emergency events.
HIDDEN
DAY 2 STORM ARRIVAL
With the dawn the storm was increasing its power to a point where the wind started to take the ocean water into the air from its surface.
One would thought that all of the animals would hide but the opposite was actually true. We surprisingly observed playful happy seals jumping into waves and playing in harsh strong gusts, ducks vigorously hunting for prey or fulmars pretending to be fighter jets.
By this time the winds were peaking with speeds up to 40 m/s which would most likely destroy our tent therefore we have decided to hide into the shelter until the storm would pass…
Despite being protected from the storm outside we could feel the fight between the structure of the shelter and howling winds.
AFTER STORM
With the storm calming down we slowly started visiting one of the black beaches which became busy playground and hunting area at same time for the only icelandic native mamals, the Arctic Foxes.
I have not seen the foxes in any other places in Iceland or Greenland to be so openly social or playful being observed or in closer encounter with the humans. Changes of mood, playfulness and hunt were very rapid as the winter was approaching every potential meal treasure found was immediately recognized by the rest of the group and depending on the size or status of the founder different scenario would occur from close direct observation to almost cruel bully and even sadly stolen prey.
We immediately felt so lucky again to be able to be here in Hornstrandir Natural Reservation and so close to such amazing animals like Artic Foxes.
TOWARDS HORN
& HORNBJERG
As we walked around the beach and surroundings of Hornvik we were still exposed to stronger wind and even stronger gusts filled with the sand. From time to time we had to cover our faces for a moment stop and continue going.
In this part it is important to decide where to cross the river due to the quick sands in the delta/ mouth of the river at the beach.
There is option to find a crossing above beach at least few hundred meters or closer at the waterfall, thats where the trail actualy also leads to from Hornvík campsite (Höfn).
(FOLLOWING PHOTOS ARE FROM THIS AREA BUT ALSO FROM THE NEXT MORE SUNNY DAY)
On the way to the Hornbjerg Cliffs and Kalfatindar Mountain (535M) We have setup a tent in the campsite of Horn and hid again from the rain and stronger winds. The next day was forecasted to be also sunny with some partial overcasts. We packed light and went up around the cape of Horn with extraordinary view point at the other side of Hornvik Fjord and Sigmundarfell (397M)
HORNBJERG
Next morning was the day we have anticipated the most from this year´s trip because this time we had the potential of reaching the top of the Kalfatindar mountain which we left un summited from last visit in Hornstrandir. We saw beatiful sunrise and the higher we got towards the Horn cape view point the more spectacular sceneries we have been able to witness.
Thank you for your interest and time spend here. I hope you have liked what you read and saw if you have any question do not hesitate to contact me through my contact form.
If you are looking for more information about Hornstrandir Reservation on how to get there or what to take with you click on the button bellow.